Field notes from 64°N and up
Guides

Sigrún on forty winters in Skaftafell
Our longest-serving guide on what has changed on the ice, and what hasn’t.

How a route gets scouted before it gets sold
Three walks, two seasons, one vote.

Ask the guide: what we carry and what we leave behind
Eleven guides, one question. The answers were shorter than we expected.
Dispatches
One letter a month, from wherever we are
Route openings, weather windows, and the odd story from the field. No gear ads.